Shoe sewing machine



Feb. 3, 1942. E. E. WI NKLEY SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 18, 1939 '2 Sheets-Sheet 1 I I I I II. I,

Feb. 3, 1942. E E. WINKLEY 2,272,077

SHOE SEWING MACHINE I Fileqi Dec. 18, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Feb. 3, 1942 SHOE SEWINGMACHINE Erastus E. Winkley, Lynn, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N. J., a corporation of, New

Jersey Application December 18, 1939, Serial No, 309,791 10 Claims. .(o1.1'12 22 1 The present invention relates to shoe sewing machines, and more particularly to inseam sewing machines for use in sewing together the upper and sole of a turn shoe, or the Welt, upper, and insole of a welt shoe. p,

An example of this class of machine is the wellknown Goodyear welt and turn shoe sewing machine which is disclosed in the patent to Eppler, No. 1,108,560, dated August 25, 1914. In this machine, as in other machines of the class employing" a curved hook needle operating from the outside of the shoe, difficulty has beenexperienced in arranging the needle and the work, so that the needle may pierce the between-substance at the base of the lip and emerge free and clear of the sole back of the channel, especially wherea so-called economy or canvas backed insole is employed, without requiring objectionable tipping of the shoe or bringing the needle into improper position to be looped) referred to; Figure 2 is a detail view in side elevation adjacent the sewing point of the machine, showing the needle,v needle carrier, and certain actuating connections of the invention, the needle being shown in fully retracted position; Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 2 butafter the needle Accordingly, it is an object of the present in.- V

vention to provide, in thisclass of machine, a

needle which will pierce the between-substance and emerge at the base of the lip clear of the sole, and which will thereafter advance into a position which will enable'the looper readily to lay the thread into the barb of the needle.

With this object in view, a feature of the invention involves the provision in a machine of the class referred'to of a hook needle having a plurality of curvatures and a needle carrier has emerged from the inside shoulder of the lip,

the needle carrier up to this point having been oscillated about a center concentric with the portion of the needle having the shorter radius of curvature; Figure 4 is a detail view in front'elevation of the parts shown in Figure 3; and Figure 5' is a view in sideelevation similar to Figures 2 and 3 but with the needle atthe limit of its work penetrating stroke and in position to be looped, the needle carrier having been oscillated from the position shown in Figure 3vabout a center concentric. with the longer radiu shank portion of the needle. j

' Referring toFigure 1 of thedrawings; the back rest of the machine is indicated at 6, the needle at'8, the looper at 10, and the thread finger at I2,

. the parts with the exception-of the 'needle being adapted to be oscillated about centers concentric with these curvatures. More specifically,' it is contemplated that the curvature of the needle in the vicinity of the barb be of lesser radius than the curvature of the shank, the needle carrier being oscillated about a center concentric with the lesser radius portion of the needle .until the point emerges at the base of the lip, and

thereafter oscillated about a center concentric with the shank portion of the needle to advance the barb into thread-receiving position forwardly of the machine. The arrangement thus provides the advantages of a short radius needle, with its ability to place the seam at the base'of the lip and emerge free of the work inwardly thereof, but without rendering diificult the proper looping of the needle after it has passed through the work.

. In the drawings illustrating the invention, Figure'l is a view in right side elevation, partly in section, of an inseam shoe sewing machine embodying the present invention, the machine being of the same general construction and arrangeactuated from the sewing shaft [4 in the manner l of the Eppler patent above referred to.

" The needle 8 differs from the usual curved hook needle in that the portion adjacent and including the barb I6 is curved in an arc of relatively small radius as compared with the radius of curvature of. the remainder or shank portion, l8 of the needle. i

I The needle is clamped in a needle carrier 20 which,-instead of being supported in theusual manner, for oscillation about a single center, is arranged to'permit oscillation about morethan one center, so that the needle may be rocked about centers concentric with its various curvatures as the different portions of the needle pass throughthe work. To this'end, the needle carrier 20 is mounted for pivotal movement about a stud 22 secured in anarm- 2 4 which iscarried by 'a shaft 26 journalled in the machine'xframe 28 in approximately the location of the conventional needle carrier stud.

The bearing for the pivot stud 22 in the needle carrier is concentrically disposedwith' respect to that portion of the needle having the shorter ment as described in the patent to Eppler above 55 radius of curvature so that when the needle carrier is rotated about the stud, the portion-of the needle in the vicinity of the point andbarb may readily'pass through the work. The location of V the stud 22 in the arm 24, on the otherhand, is such that its radial distance. from the center-of supporting shaft 26 is equal to the difference between the longer and the shorter radii of curvature of the needle portions.

The stud 22 is connected by means of a link 30 with one arm of a bell crank lever 32 pivotally supported on a cross shaft 34 at the rear of the machine. The other arm of the bell crank is provided with a follower 38 operating in a cam groove 38 in one face of a cam disc 48.

In addition to being pivotally mounted on stud 22, the needle carrier 20 is provided with a second pivotal center comprising a stud 42 fixed in the carrier at a point concentric with the shank or longer radius portion of the needle. This stud is provided with separate actuating connection-s.

comprising link 45 and cam actuated. lever 46 having a follower 48 operating in cam groove 59 in the other face of the cam disc 40.

The cam grooves 38 and 50 are laid out to cause the needle carrier to be rocked, during the advancing and retracting strokes of the needle, about centers appropriate to the curvatures of the. various portions of the needle as. each. portion passes through the work. Starting with the parts in the position shown in. Figure 2 of the drawings, the needle is. shown in retracted position preparatory to piercin the upstanding lip 52. in securing the welt 54 and upper 55 to an insole 58 provided with a. canvas covering or backing. 6!

During the preliminary portion of the work stud 22 as a center, the arm 24 in which thestud is mounted being held in. a downwardly directed positionby the constant radius portion 52 of cam groove 38. At the same time, they cam lever 46 is rocked in clockwise direction by the portion 64 of cam groove 56 to cause the link 4.4. to rock the needle carrier about the stud. 22-through an arc of. approximately 98, to substantially the position shown in Figure 3, which shows the shortradius portion of the needle emergin from the work at the base of the lipEZ. By reason ofthe short radius of curvature and oscillation. of the needle, the needle is enabled tostrike into the welt and upper at a. relativel steep angle and pierce the lip at the very base thereof, and yet emerge on the inside of the lip just clear of the surface of the insole back of the lip thus avoiding catching or otherwise disturbing the canvas backing 68.

For the remainder of itsv advancing stroke, the needle is rocked about a center concentric with its longer radius shank portion, in order that the barb It may advance into a position well forwardly of the position it would otherwise reach if the entire needle was of a short radius of ourvature and rocked about a single center. As shown in Figures 3 and 4, which illustrate the needle and needle carrier at the limit of their advance about the short-radius center, namely stud 22, the needle carrier has reached a position in which the stud 42, representin the center of the longer-radius portion of the needle, is. in substantial alignment with the shaft 26. The stud 52 is now held from displacement while the needle carrier 29 and supportin arm 24 are rocked as a unit about said stud and shaft as a center to the position illustrated in Figures 1 and 5. The stud 42 is held in alignment with the shaft 26 by the constant radius portion. [56 of the cam groove G, while the bell crank 32 is rocked in clockwise direction by portion 58. of

cam groove 38. The needle is maintained in its fully advanced position for such time as is required for the looper l0 properly to lay the thread in the barb of the needle, the dwell being provided by constant radius portions 12 and 66 of cam grooves 38 and 50 respectively.

Upon completion of the looping operation, the needle is retracted in a manner just the reverse of its piercing stroke. While the shank portion I8 is being withdrawn, the needle is rocked about the long radius center by cam lever 32 and link 30. After the needle has been retracted as far as the position shown in Figure 8, the stud 2,2' is held from further bodily displacement and a the needle carrier rocked about said stud as the short radius center whil the portion Of the needle having thegreater curvature is withdrawn from the work and the needle moved to fully retracted position as in Figure 2.

While the invention has been illustrated and described, as embodied in a shoe sewing machine of particular construction and arrangement, the invention is not so limited, but ma be embodied in machines of other forms and arrangements within the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimedis:

1-. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle having a plurality of. curvatures of different radii, said curvatures, bein concentric with a, plurality of. centers disposed at spaced points, a needle carrier, and meanslfor oscillating the needle carrier. successively about said centers concentric with the respective curvatures of the needle.

2. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices includin a hook needle having a. plurality of curvatures, a needle carrier, a plurality of pivotal supports for said carrier concentric with the curvatures of the needle, and means for rocking the needle carrier about successive pivotal supports.

3.. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle having apluralit of. curvatures of different radii, said curvatures bein concentric with a plurality of centers disposed. at spaced points, a,needle carrier, and means connected to the needle, carrier at. a plurality of pivotal points for rocking the needle carrier successively about said. centers concentric with. the respective curvatures. of the needle.

4. An inseamv shoesewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle having. a. plurality of curvatures of different, radii, said curvatures being concentric with a plurality of centers disposed at spaced points, a needle carrier, andmeans for actuating the needle carrier to cause the needle to enter and withdraw from the work. comprising a plurality of. r'nemberspivotally connected to the needle carrier andlmeansfor actuating, said membersto, rock the needle carrier successivel about said, centers. concentric with the respective curvaturesof the portions of the needle as they pass through the work.

5. Aninseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle having. a plurality ofcurvatures of different, radii, said curvatures being concentric with a plurality of centersdisposed at spaced points, a needle carrier, and means for actuating, the, needle carrier to. cause. the. needle. to enter andiwithdr-awfrom the. work comprisin a plurality of links 'pivotally connected to the needle carrier and a plurality of cam-actuated levers for actuating the links in timed relation to the passage of the needle through the work whereby the needle may be rocked successively about said centers concentric with the respective curvatures of the portions of the needle as they pass through the work.

6. Aninseam shoe sewing maehine having, in

combination, stitch forming, devices including a curved hook needle, the portion of the needle adjacent the point having a lesser radius of curvature than the shank'portion of the needle,

and means for rocking the needle about centers concentric first with, one curvature of the needle and then another. I

7. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in

combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle,'the portionof theneedle adjacent the point having a lesser radius of curvature than the shank portion of the needle, a needle carrier actuated tocause the needle to combination,stitch forming devices including a curved'hoc-k needle,-the portion of the-needle adjacent the point having a lesser radius of curvature than the shank portion of the needle,

a needle carrier, a pivoted support, ,a pivotal 'con- I nection'between the support and needle carrier concentric with the portion of the needle having the lesser radiusof curvature and spaced from the pivot of the support a radial distance equal to the difierence between the greater and the lesser radiiof curvature of the needle portions;

and means for rocking ,theneedle carrier about its pivotal connection with the support relative to: said support while the-portion of the needle adjacent the point is passed through the work and for rocking the needlecarrier and support "as a unit about the pivot of vthe support while the shank of the needle is in the work. 10. An inseam shoe sewingmachine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle having a radius of'curvature adjacent its .point less than th radius of curenter and to withdraw from the work, and means for supporting the needle carrier for oscillation about a center concentric with the curvature of the lesser radius portion of the needle whilethe portion adjacent the point is passing through the, work and about 'a center concentric with the needle carrier and the supportabout thepivot of the support.

' 9. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in

vature of the shank portion, a needle carrier, a pivoted support, a pivotal connection :between the support and carrier concentric with the portion of the needle havingthe lesser radiusi 'of curvature, a link pivotally connected to said pivotal connection, a second link pivotally connected ,tothe needle carrier at a point concentric with the shank portion of thefneedle, and means ,for y successively actuating 'thelinks to'cause the first link to hold the support while *the' second linkrotates the needle carrier about 'thepivotal con- I nection and thereafter to cause the secondlink (f tohold the needle carrier, with the 'link pivot concentric with the pivot of the support while the first link rotates the needlecarrier and the-sup-- port as a unit about the pivot of. the support.

ERASTUS WInKLEY. 

